Then when the heater that you are regulating with the thermostat is on, you will have enough power in your incubator. For example, if you think you will need about 350 watts for your incubator, you can put a 60 watt light bulb inside the incubator that is always on. NOTE: if your incubator needs more power than 300 watts, you have the option of using a heater that is always on in order to bump up the entire wattage inside the incubator. Maximum heater wattage: 300 watts (see note below if you need more power) Easily mounts into your incubator (see video below) ![]() Remote sensor for accurate temperature reading Controls the heater, fan and egg turner motors (it is not required to use this module to control all accessories, if you desire not to) Comes pre-set to 99.5 degrees F (easily adjustable, if desired) Proportional thermostat - minimizes temperature swings (see details below) This is designed to control the temperature, air circulation and automatic turner motors in your incubator. This device lets you add a sophisticated control module to your cabinet (or larger-style) egg incubator. Key lock feature allows you to set the temperature and lock the keys so it cannot be changed without unlocking the keys (keys are locked by pressing both up and down buttons for 5 seconds).Wiring and operation instructions included. It also includes instructions for installing an incubator fan, if desired. ![]() For example: If you have a thermometer that you trust and the digital thermostat reads a little different, you can calibrate the thermostat to match the trusted thermometer (calibrate in 0.1 degree increments up to +/- 5 degrees) This means that you can calibrate the thermostat to a specific temperature. As long as the up and down cycle is relatively small, is less than a few minutes, and the average air temperature is at your target temperature, the temperature inside your egg (which is what really matters) will be just fine! This is true with any incubator and egg configuration. NOTE: It is normal for the thermostat to turn the heater off and still have the air temperature increase a little bit. This happens because as the power to the heater turns off, the heater is still hot and will heat the air around it. The same is true when the heater turns back on: the temperature may decrease a little more as the heater gets back up to temperature. The amount this happens will depend on the thermal mass of your heating element and the amount of circulation in your incubator. Keep in mind that the air temperature may vary without a negative impact to the eggs if the variation is rapid enough to not allow the egg to heat or cool more than it should.Temperature Switching Differential = 0.2 degrees Fahrenheit. This means if the thermostat is set to 99.5 the thermostat will turn the heat on when the thermostat sensor reads below 99.3 and turn off when the sensor reads above 99.7.Remote Temperature Sensor (18 inches long).Designed specifically for incubators, great for small incubators AND cabinet incubators (can switch heating elements up to 225 Watts).Digital readout displays temperature to the tenth of a degree (examples: 98.0, 99.5).Comes preset to 99.5 (this means that if you lose power the thermostat will come back on set to 99.5) - Preset to 37.5 in Celsius mode.This can be set to read in Celsius or Fahrenheit. ![]() Finally you can measure the temperature right next to your eggs, not the air at the top of the incubator. The white thermostat case is then mounted on the outside of the incubator. The unit has an 18 inch remote sensor that is placed inside the incubator. There is a flame indicator on the screen that shows when the heater is operating. Just press the up arrow to set the temperature (in 0.1 degree increments).
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